Old Dhaka is dense, narrow, and loud. You cannot treat it like the rest of the city. The streets were built for rickshaws, not cars. If you try to take a taxi or Uber, you will spend most of your time stuck in traffic. The real way to move around is on foot, by rickshaw, or by the occasional CNG (auto-rickshaw).
Start at the central point: Sadarghat Launch Terminal. Most people arrive here by boat or bus. From Sadarghat, you can walk to the Ahsan Manzil (Pink Palace) in about ten minutes. The walk is chaotic but manageable. Watch for motorbikes on the footpath.
Rickshaws are the backbone of Old Dhaka. They can squeeze through alleys where nothing else fits. Always agree on the fare before you sit. Short trips within Old Dhaka cost between 20 and 50 taka. Longer routes, like from Sadarghat to Shakhari Bazaar, might cost 60–80 taka. Carry small notes; drivers rarely have change for 500 taka notes.
CNGs are faster but harder to find inside the narrow lanes. You will find them on the main roads like Nawabpur Road or Bangshal Road. They charge by meter, but drivers often demand a fixed fare. From Sadarghat to the Star Mosque (Tara Masjid), a CNG should cost around 100–150 taka. Negotiate before you get in.
Walking is the best way to explore areas like Shakhari Bazaar, Tanti Bazaar, and the Armenian Church area. The lanes are too narrow for any vehicle. Wear comfortable shoes. The streets can be muddy after rain. Carry a bottle of water and a mask — the dust and fumes are heavy.
If you need to cross the Buriganga River, use the small ferries at Sadarghat. They cost 5 taka per person and take five minutes. On the other side, you can visit the old post office or the ruins of the Boro Katra. The ferries run from early morning until late evening.
For longer distances within Old Dhaka, like from Sadarghat to the Lalbagh Fort, take a rickshaw or CNG. The distance is about 2.5 kilometres. A rickshaw will take 30–40 minutes in traffic. A CNG can do it in 15–20 minutes if the roads are clear. Lalbagh Fort is on a main road, so CNGs are easier to find there.
Returning to New Dhaka or your hotel: from Old Dhaka, the easiest way is to take a CNG or taxi to Shahbagh or Motijheel. From there, you can catch a ride-sharing service or a bus. The ride to Gulshan or Banani takes about 45 minutes to an hour, depending on traffic.
Mobile networks work well in Old Dhaka. You can use Google Maps or Uber to get approximate fares, but drivers inside the old city rarely accept app-based bookings. It is better to hail a rickshaw or CNG on the street.
Safety is not a major concern in Old Dhaka during the day. Pickpocketing can happen in crowded markets, so keep your phone and wallet in a front pocket or bag. At night, the area becomes quiet and poorly lit. Stick to main roads if you are out after 9 PM. Most shops close by 8 PM.
If you plan to visit multiple sites in one day, consider hiring a rickshaw for a half-day tour. Many rickshaw drivers know the area well and will take you to Ahsan Manzil, Star Mosque, Lalbagh Fort, and Shakhari Bazaar for around 300–400 taka for 3–4 hours. Agree on the route and price beforehand.
Old Dhaka is not a place for a strict schedule. Leave room for detours. The most interesting parts are often down a side alley you did not plan to enter.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best time of day to explore Old Dhaka?
Early morning, from 7 AM to 10 AM, is the best time. The streets are less crowded, the air is cleaner, and the light is good for photos. Avoid midday heat and afternoon traffic.
How much does a rickshaw ride cost in Old Dhaka?
Short trips within the old city cost 20–50 taka. Longer routes, like Sadarghat to Lalbagh Fort, cost around 60–100 taka. Always negotiate before starting the ride.
Can I use ride-sharing apps like Uber in Old Dhaka?
Uber and other ride-sharing apps work on the main roads but not inside the narrow lanes. You may need to walk to a main road to get a pickup. Drivers often cancel inside the old city due to traffic.
Is it safe to walk around Old Dhaka alone?
Yes, during the day it is generally safe. Keep an eye on your belongings in crowded markets. At night, stick to well-lit main roads and avoid empty alleys.
How do I cross the Buriganga River from Sadarghat?
Use the small passenger ferries at Sadarghat. They cost 5 taka per person and cross in about five minutes. Ferries run from around 6 AM to 9 PM.
